For sale: 1992 Toyota MR2 Turbo

Details

Engine Mods

• Built o-ringed bottom end from Jamasco (.30 over, stock stroke) 9.0:1
• Wiesco forged pistons (13cc dish)
• pauter rods
• shot peened, polished and balanced stock 3s crank
• EngineLogics built 3s head
  • HKS 264/272 cams
  • Stock 'adjustable' cam gears
  • 'Street' port
  • MR-S shim-less bucket conversion
  • 1.0mm oversize intake and exhaust valves
  • 65lb valve springs
  • titanium retainers
  • TTE 1.2mm HG
  • Hi-temp coated valve cover
• TVIS delete
• full ARP hardware suite
• twosrus valve cover bolt set
• Full OEM gasket rebuild kit on engine (including HG)
• Samco coolant hose kit

Fuel Mods

• Wolfkatz side feed fuel rail
• 850cc FD side feed high impedence injectors
• Walboro 255lph fuel pump
• Aeromotive FPR
• Stock resister pack delete

Bolt-on Mods

• Extreme Boost CT26/35R turbo
• Autolab side mount intercooler with 3" piping
• TiAL 50mm BOV
• Berk 3" Downpipe
• 3" Berk exhaust
• Apex'i Intake
• 93+ Throttle Body Inlet
• Clutchmaster Stage 4 sprung hub (unsprung also available)
• Lightened Fidanza flywheel
• Turbo XS dual stage manual boost controller

Interior Mods

• 45mm omori boost gauge in stock location
• PLX wideband mounted in stock clock location
• Defi Digital Display in stock ashtray location
• JDM cupholder/coin tray
• Greddy Turbo Timer and Defi Control Unit II in storage unit
• OEM toyota fog light switch

Exterior Mods

• JDM clear corners
• JDM solid side markers
• Moulding body-color matched
• twosrus fog light bolt kit
• JDM 'Rear view' center panel cover (light covers included but not installed)
• OEM 93+ rims (not pictured - needs new tires)

Suspension Mods

• TRD springs and tokico struts (struts come w/lifetime warranty) - tabs are slit for easy removal of brake lines
• H&T end links on the rear
• 93 n/a end links on the front
• Full Prothane urethane bushings all around

Misceallaneous

• Kirkasaurus poly engine inserts
• Frunk engine struts
• JDM Koito headlights
• Timing belt, oil pump, water pump replaced at build
• HFH and HFHOE replaced at build
• New OEM iginition components replaced at build
• New OEM radiator replaced at build
• New rotors and pads replaced at build
• TRD radiator cap
• Tons of other stock parts replaced at build (available upon request)

Photos

Etc.

I purchased this car almost 8 years ago with just under 140k miles. The previous owner had an SAFC installed and subsequently the engine needed a rebuild after a year of daily driving and a road trip to Texas. I ended up deciding to do a full build and had a local shop do most of the work. Dave Jones assembled and installed the engine and Saridea did the fabrication and other build work. The car was originally tuned by at revolutions in the springs.

The car was under the knife for almost 2 years waiting for parts or assembly or tuning. I then drove it as a daily driver for about a year until my clutch pedal went dead. I limped the car to my friend's house in lakewood so we could look at it. While the car was down I decided to swap out the t3/t4 setup for a full GT35R setup (the dyno plot is with the old t3/t4 so with the new turbo it should be at least the same hp but with better spool). This is currently 99% done (just needs a drain line for the turbo) but the car is not currently driveable. I also still need to fix the clutch. I'm an active rocky mountain mr2 owner's club member (rmmoc.com) as well as national mr2 owner's club member (mr2.com) and if you're at all interested in the car I highly encourage you to join the forums.

Other things

• Engine temp sensor light comes on because the stock ECU is no longer in use
• To pass emissions you will need a test pipe(i don't have) and emissions tune/cam configuration (i can provide)
• With the rear center panel you need to open the trunk from the release in the cockpit
• The driver's seat has the normal bolster wear
• Clutch chatters like any other 6 puck
• The A/C has been converted to freeze12 but needs a recharge
• The windshield has 2 large pits in it
• I have the antenna motor disconnected. Everything works when plugged in though.
• Car has a modest 12psi tune for the winter
• Power steering light is on because i have the relay disconnected. Something was leaking fluid - i tried stop leak but it didn't work so i just drive without power steering
• ABS light is on on the dash - the rear driver's sensor is potentially bad

Please contact me with any questions 720.323.0448